Free Tips and Resources

Troubleshooting Home Problems

Troubleshooting Information

Click on a Home Appliance or Mechanical System that is not working or, the item that you are having problems with in your home, condominium, townhouse, manufactured home and mobile home. Plus, at the bottom of this page is (800) numbers for all manufactures and a place to find parts, plus fireplace information.

Dishwasher
Garbage Disposal
Trash Compactor
Refrigerator and Freezer
Electric Range
Gas Range
Gas Water Heater
Electrical
Electric Water Heater
Central Air Conditioning
Gas Forced Air and Heat Pump
Septic Tank Cleaning
Pool or Spa
Mold and Asbestos Problem
Water Problem and Disaster Restoration


DISHWASHER

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

You can't get the dishwasher to run.

The door isn't locked.
The timer or selector button is in the wrong position.
No power is reaching the unit.
The door switch is defective.
Some wires are loose.
The timer is defective.

Relock the door.
Check the setting of both the timer and the selector button.
Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
Check the door switch for damage.
Check all the terminals on both the timer and motor.
Replace the timer.

Dishes are still dirty at the end of the wash.

The water isn't hot enough.
The dishes are not correctly prepared for washing.
The dishes aren't stacked correctly.

First, check the temperature of the hot water from the tap - it should be between 140°F and 150°F. Also check the hot water setting.
Scrape and rinse all dishes before loading the dishwasher.
Dishes can't touch and must face the direction of the spray to get completely clean.

The dishwashers tub doesn't fill with water.

There is a defect in the water inlet valve or solenoid.
The water filter is clogged.
The overflow switch has a defect.
The timer is defective.

Check the valve.
Check to see if your water inlet valve has a filter and clean it.
Check the switch. If it freezes in the FULL position, the unit will not fill.
Replace the timer.

You can't get the water to stop running.

The water inlet valve is stuck.
The timer is defective.
There is a defect in the overflow switch.

Check the valve and see if you can shut it.
Replace the timer.
If the switch is frozen in the EMPTY position, the water will continue to run.

The water isn't draining out of the unit.

There is a kink or a clog in the drain hose.
There is a defect in the pump motor.
The timer is defective.

Disconnect the drain hose and blow through it to be sure it is clear.
Call a qualified contractor.
Replace the timer.

The dishes aren't drying.

There are mineral deposits on the heating element.
The heating element wire is loose.
The heating element has burned out.
The timer is defective.

The deposits should come off with vinegar.
Check all the electrical connections around the heating element.
Replace the heating element.
Replace the timer.

Water is leaking out of the dishwasher.

The door seal is damaged.
The overflow switch is defective.
The door hinges are broken.
The heating element nuts are loose.
The hose clamps are loose.

Replace the door seal.
Check the switch for damage.
Replace the hinges.
Tighten the nuts that attach the element to the tub.
To see if there's a loose hose connection, you may have to move the unit.

The dishwasher is unusually noisy.

The spray arm is hitting the dishes.
The water inlet valve is damaged (a knocking sound while the unit fills).
There isn't enough water in the tub.

Reload the unit so dishes don't touch the spray arm.
Replace the water inlet valve.
Stop using other faucets while the unit fills.

Garbage Disposal

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

You can't turn on the motor or Jammed

There is no power.
The on/off switch is defective.
The overload protector switch is tripped.
The motor has a defect.
Jammed Disposal

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker. And if the disposal is plugged into a wall outlet, check the wall outlet.
On continuous-feed models, check the wall switch. On batch-feed models, check the stopper switch.
If the flywheel is jammed, free it. Then push the reset button.
Call a qualified contractor. A disposal wrench is provided with your garbage disposal and will either be in a pouch on the disposal or will be in one of the kitchen drawers. There is a female receptor for the wrench on the bottom of the disposal. You will need to put the wrench in the receptor and turn it counter clockwise until the wrench turns freely. Then press the reset button located at the bottom of the disposal. Your disposal should once again operate properly. If you drop a fork in your disposal, always TURN THE POWER OFF before you fish it out.

Motor hums but the unit doesn't grind.

The flywheel is jammed.
The motor bearings have frozen.

Free the flywheel.
Call a qualified contractor. You'll probably have to buy a new unit.

The disposal continuously blows fuses.

Too many appliances are plugged into the circuit.

Install a 15-amp circuit just for the disposal.

You can't stop the disposal.

The on/off switch is defective.

Call a qualified contractor

The disposal grinds things too slowly.

There is not enough water.
There is improper waste in the unit.
The shredder ring is dull or the flyweights are broken.

Run more cold water when using the disposal.
Only dispose of materials allowed by the manual.
Replace defective parts.

The disposal drains slowly.

There is not enough water.
The drain line is clogged.
The disposal isn't grinding finely enough.

Run more cold water when using the disposal.
Don't use harsh chemical agents. Flush with hot water to remove a grease clog, then remove the drainpipe and clean it.
Replace a dull shredder ring or any broken flyweights.

The disposal is making an unusual amount of noise.

There is a metallic object in the unit.
The mounting screws are loose.
A flyweight is broken.
The motor is defective.

Inspect the unit and fish out the object with tongs or forceps.
Tighten the mounting screws.
Replace the broken flywheel.
Call a qualified contractor.

There is a leak in the disposal.

The sink connection is loose.
The drain connection is loose.
The housing gasket is damaged.

Tighten the flanges holding the gasket or replace the gasket.
Tighten the drain flanges or replace the drain gasket.
Replace the gasket.

TRASH COMPACTOR

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

You can't turn on the compactor.

No power is reaching the outlet.
The electrical cord is defective.
The safety lock is not on.
The drawer is open.
The motor is overloaded.
There is a defective switch.
There is a loose electrical connection.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
Test the cord and replace it if damaged.
Turn on the safety lock.
Remove anything that keeps it from closing.
Remove the wall plug and allow 10 minutes for the motor to cool. Then check the drive train or drive belt and look for broken gears and worn ram screws.

Unit starts but blows a fuse or trips a circuit breaker.

There are to many appliance on one circuit.
A chord or plug has a short circuit.
A switch has a short circuit.
A motor has a short circuit.

Run the unit on its own circuit.
Test the plug and cord continuity.
Test the switches for continuity.
Call a qualified contractor.

The motor runs but the trash isn't compacted.

The drive chain is loose or broken.
The gears or pulleys are loose.
The ram is seized up.

Check the chain for problems, then adjust or replace it.
Check the gears and pulleys, then tighten or replace them if necessary.
The ram screws need lubrication. If the screws are stripped, they must be replaced.

The compactor is unusually noisy.

The drive chain is too loose.
The unit needs to be lubricated.
Some parts are loose.

Tighten the chain.
Lubricate the unit.
Check and tighten every bolt and screw.

The unit smells unusual.

The deodorant is empty.
The aerosol nozzle on the deodorant is clogged.

Replace the deodorant.
Ream the nozzle out with a thin wire.

You can't get the compactor to stop running.

The top-limit switch is defective.
There is a defect in the start/stop switch.

Pull the plug and check the switch for continuity.
Check the switch and replace it if necessary.

Trash spills out of the unit.

The bag isn't in the right position.

Check the position of the bag and the clips that hold it.

You can't get the drawer to open.

The ram stalled.

Make sure the compactor is plugged in and that the door is completely closed. Then, unplug it and look for a broken belt, chain, pulley, or drive screw.

REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

The refrigerator has stopped running, no sound can be heard and the light is out.

There is no power at the outlet.
The power cord is damaged.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
Check the outlet with a VOM or a lamp.
If refrigerator blows fuses, put it on its own circuit.
Replace the cord.

The refrigerator has stopped running, the light is on and you hear occasional clicking.

The condenser coils are dirty.
The condenser fan is defective (frost-free type)
The voltage reaching the unit is incorrect.
There is a defect in the thermostat.
There is a defect in the compressor.

Clean the coils.
Check the fan.
Check the voltage with a VOM, then call the power company if it's not between 105 and 125 volts.
Test the thermostat and replace it if necessary.
Call a qualified contractor.

The refrigerator constantly cycles on and off.

The wrong voltage is reaching the unit.
There is a defect in the compressor.
The refrigerant is leaking.
The condenser coils are dirty.

Run the unit on its own circuit and check the voltage at the outlet.
Call a qualified contractor.
Call a qualified contractor.
Clean the coils.

The refrigerator doesn't cool well or runs all the time.

The thermostat is on the wrong setting.
The condenser coils are dirty.
The door gasket is damaged.
The door sags.
There is heavy frost accumulation.
The door is open too much.
The weather is hot and humid.
The light is on inside.
The insulation in the door and sides is wet.
The room is too warm.
The evaporator fan is damaged.
The compressor fan is damaged.
The defrost timer is defective.
The refrigerant has leaked out.

Change the thermostat temperature.
Clean the coils.
Check the gasket.
Straighten the door.
Defrost the unit more often.
Open the door as little as possible.
If the unity runs continuously but cools well, there is no problem.
Check the door switch.
Open the unit on a dry day and let it dry out. Also, repair or replace cracked door jambs and panels.
Move the refrigerator to a cooler place or start cooling the room. Check the fan for damage.
Check the timer for defects.
Call a qualified contractor.

Frost forms rapidly or the unit does not defrost at all.

The door is open too much.
The door sags.
The door gasket is damaged.
Foods are left uncovered.
The drains are clogged.
The defrost timer, heater or thermostat is damaged.

Open the door as little as possible.
Straighten the door.
Test the gasket and replace it.
Cover or seal all foods, especially liquids.
Open and clean all the drains.
Check the timer, heater and thermostat for defects.

The refrigerator makes an unusual noise.

The unit is not sitting level.
The drain pan rattles.
The compressor mounts are hard or broken.
The fan blades are blocked by something.

Adjust the position of the unit.
Move the pan so it doesn't touch sides of the unit.
Replace the mounts.

Check the evaporator and compressor fans for obstructions.

The refrigerator smells unusual.

The drains are clogged.
The drain pan is dirty.

Open the drains and flush them.
Clean the pan and disinfect it.

Water is leaking underneath or inside the unit.

The drain hose or drain pan is broken.
The drains are clogged or the pan is full.

Replace the broken parts.
Open the drains or empty the drain pan.

ELECTRIC RANGE

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

The range is not working at all.

No power is reaching the range.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker. If you don't find a problem, call an electrician.

One of the top elements doesn't heat.

The element, wiring, terminal block or switch is defective.

Check each part for continuity and replace it if necessary.

A top element doesn't cook well.

The pan is the wrong size.
The element is damaged.

Use flat-bottomed pans that just cover the element.
Replace the element.

You can't get the oven to heat.

The element, wiring, thermostat or selector switch has a defect.
The time is not set properly.
The timer is defective.

Check each part for continuity and replace any that are defective.
Reread the instructions and reset it.
Replace the timer.

The top rear element doesn't heat.

The oven is in its self-cleaning cycle.

The extremely high power requirement during cleaning may prevent the stove from working.

The oven overheats.

A vent is clogged.

Clean the vent.

The oven doesn't hold the temperature you set.

The door gasket is damaged.
The thermostat isn't calibrated correctly.

Replace the gasket.
Call a qualified contractor.

The oven lamp doesn't work.

The bulb is burned out.
There is a defective switch or wiring to the bulb socket.

Replace the burned-out bulb with the same type of oven bulb.
Test the wiring and switch, then replace defective parts.

The timer doesn't work.

The timer hasn't been set correctly.
The timer fuse has blown.
There are loose connections.
The timer is damaged.

Check the instructions and reset it.
Check the 15-amp fuse in the timer circuit.
Turn the power off and check the timer connections for continuity.
Replace the timer.

The oven door won't stay shut.

A hinge or spring is defective.

Replace the defective part.

Condensation forms inside the oven.

The vent is clogged.
The door doesn't close properly.
The oven doesn't preheat properly.

Clean the vent. If there is an air filter, clean or replace it.
Check the gasket and door hinge springs.
Preheat the oven with the door ajar.

The accessory receptacle on the control panel doesn't work.

A fuse is blown.
The wiring is defective.

Check the 15-amp fuse in the accessory circuit.
Check the wiring and replace any damaged wires.

The oven stops self-cleaning.

The door isn't locked.
The door switch, wiring or thermostat is defective.

Try starting over again.
Call a qualified contractor.

GAS RANGE

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

A surface burner doesn't light.

The pilot light is out.

The gas isn't on.

Follow the instructions for relighting the pilot on your particular range.
Call the gas company.

The pilot flame doesn't remain lighted.

The pilot port is clogged.
The range is in a drafty place.

Use a small wire to clean the port.
Try to prevent drafts near the range.

A burner is burning erratically.

The burner is clogged.
There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air.

Clean the burner parts.
Call the gas company.

The oven stops lighting.

The oven pilot light is out.
There is s defective thermocouple.
The gas isn't on.

Follow the instructions for relighting the pilot on your particular range.
Replace the thermocouple.
Call the gas company.

The oven heats poorly.

There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air.
The safety thermocouple is defective.

Call the gas company.
Replace the thermocouple.

Things bake unevenly in the oven. The oven overheats.

The door gasket is damaged.
The exhaust vent is clogged.
There is a defect in the thermostat.

Replace the gasket.
Clean the vent.
Call the gas company.

The burners are producing soot.

There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air.

Call the gas company.

The burners make an unusual noise.

There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air.

Call the gas company.

You smell gas.

The pilot is out.
The gas line is leaking.

Ventilate the room and relight the pilot.
Call the gas company. Ventilate the room, extinguish all flames and don't turn on any electric switches.

GAS WATER HEATER

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

There is no hot water.

The pilot light isn't lighted.
The pilot light won't keep burning.
There is a clog in the burner.
There is a defective thermocouple.
The gas is not coming out.

Carefully relight the pilot.
Make sure the gas controls are completely turned on. Then, check the thermocouple and be sure it is firmly connected to the gas control unit and positioned near the pilot flame.
Call a qualified contractor.
Replace the thermocouple.
Call the gas company.

There isn't enough hot water.

The thermostat isn't correctly set.
The thermostat is defective.
Hot water pipes are exposed.
The water tank is too small.
There is a clog in the burner.
Sediment has formed in the tank.
The hot water faucets are leaking.

Turn the thermostat higher.
Call a qualified contractor.
Insulate the hot water pipes.
Install a larger water tank.
Call a qualified contractor.
Turn off the gas and drain the tank.
Repair or replace the faucets.

The water heater is very noisy.

Scale and sediment have formed in the tank.

Turn off the gas and drain the tank.

The water is too hot.

The thermostat is on the wrong setting.
There is a thermostat defect.
The exhaust vent is blocked by something.

Reset the thermostat.
Call a qualified contractor.
Check the vent and clear it.

Water is leaking from the heater.

There is a leak in the drain cock.
The safety valve is leaking.

The tank has a hole in it.
There is a leak in the plumbing connection.

Close it tightly or replace it. Gas water heater has a wide vent pipe at the top of the unit. Turn off the water supply by turning the cold water supply valve above the unit clockwise until it stops, (or turn off the main water valve to your house).
Check the water temperature. If it's too hot, the thermostat may be broken. If the safety valve is defective, replace it.
Buy a new water heater.
Call a plumber.

ELECTRICAL

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

You can't get the lights or the outlet to work.

No power is reaching the fixtures or outlets.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker and make sure everything is fully set to the on position or the fuses aren't blown. Check for an overload - too many appliances plugged into one circuit. Unplug all appliances and reset the breaker. Check the GFI outlet and reset it if it is tripped.

ELECTRICAL WATER HEATER

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

There is no hot water.

The heater has no power.
The safety thermostat has quit working.
There s a defect in the heating thermostats.
There is a defect in the heating elements.
Rust, scale or sediment have accumulated in the tank or pipes.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker. If the heater repeatedly blows fuses, call an electrician.
Push the reset button. Test the heating thermostats and elements.
Test the thermostats and replace them if necessary.
Test the elements and replace them if necessary.
Drain & flush out the drain and pipes.

The hot water supply is too low.

The thermostat is set wrong.
The tank is too small.
Heat is getting lost in the pipes.
There is a defect in the heating element.
The hot water faucets leak.

Turn the thermostat to a lower temperature.
Install a larger heater.
Move the heater nearer to the point of use if possible and insulate the water pipes.
Test the element, then replace it.
Repair or replace the faucets.

The water temperature is too high.

The thermostat is on the wrong setting.
There is not enough insulation around the thermostats.
The elements are defective.
The thermostats are defective.

Turn the thermostat to a lower temperature.
Pack the insulation more tightly around the thermostats.
Test the elements, then replace them if necessary.
Test the thermostats, then replace them if necessary.

There is a water leak.

The gasket or seal on the element is defective.
There is a defect in the safety valve.
The tank is rusted through.
The plumbing connection leaks.

Check and replace the gasket or seal. The water heater has an AC power cable at top, no wide vent. Turn the power switch off (or use the circuit breaker). Turn off the water supply valve above the unit clockwise until it stops. (or turn off the main water valve to your house).
Check and replace the safety valve.
Buy a new water heater.
Call a plumber.

The heater becomes unusually noisy.

Rust, scale or sediment has accumulated in the tank.
Scale has formed on the elements.

Drain the tank and flush it out.
Remove the elements and soak them in vinegar, then scrape off the scale.

Your hot water is rusty or discolored.

Rust or sediment has accumulated in the tank.
Scale has formed on the elements.
The water pipes are corroded.

Drain the tank.
Remove the elements and soak them in vinegar, then scrape off the scale.
Have a plumber replace the pipes.

CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

Water leaks into the walls or ceiling.

The drain hose from the condenser pan is clogged (in attic installations).

Make sure the hose is able to empty the water.

The unit constantly cycles on and off.

There may be something clogging the evaporator unit or blocking the fan.

Clean out the evaporator unit.

The air conditioner doesn't get cool enough.

The condenser coil is dirty.
There is direct sun on the evaporator unit.
The insulation has fallen off the feed line.

Clean any debris from the condenser unit so air can circulate freely around the fins.
Create shade for the unit.
Secure the insulation firmly to the line and replace any worn-out insulation.

GAS FORCED AIR AND HEAT PUMP

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

There is no heat at all.

The power is out.
The blower belt is broken.
The blower motor is broken.

Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
Replace the belt.
Call a qualified contractor.

Your rooms aren't warm enough.

The filter is dirty.
The registers are dirty.
There are leaks in the ducts.
The heat exchange is dirty.
The ducts are blocked.
The blower belt is loose.
The blower is slow.
The register is closed.
The duct damper is in an incorrect position.

Replace the filter.
Clean the registers.
Seal the ducts with duct tape.
Call a qualified contractor.
Remove any visible obstructions.
Tighten the blower belt.
Call a qualified contractor.
Open the register.
Adjust the dampers.

Soot collects in your house.

The filter is dirty.
The heat exchange is damaged.
The ducts are dirty.

Replace the filter.
Call a qualified contractor.
Have a professional clean them.

The blower makes unusual noises - noticeable when the burner is off.

The pulley is loose.
The blower mounts are worn.
A worn belt.
The belt tension is too high.
The blower bearings need oil.

Tighten the setscrews.
Put in new blower mounts.
Replace the belt.
Loosen the belt tension.
Oil the bearings.

You turned on the furnace for the first time one morning, It smelled so bad you are worried it was carbon monoxide or something else was wrong.

Is this normal?

The odor is normal because dust collects on the heat exchanger over the summer, and turning it on for the first time simply burns the dust off. Carbon monoxide is odorless, so you could not smell it. Homeowners should install a good carbon monoxide detector to make sure none of this deadly poison is present in their homes. When you turn on your furnace for the first time leave the windows open to dispel the odor quickly. This is also the ideal time to schedule a maintenance appointment to make sure your furnace will work properly when you need it.

The home we just purchased has a heat pump and it doesn't seem to warm up as quickly as our previous house which had a gas furnace.

Is this normal?

A heat pump is simply an air conditioner with the ability to reverse the flow of refrigerant (freon), and gas furnaces are simply more efficient than air conditioners. If your thermostat is set at 70-degrees, your heat pump will discharge air at approximately 20-degrees above thermostat setting while a gas furnace produces approximately 40-degrees hotter air, naturally warming the area much faster.

POOL OR SPA

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

Pool or Spa pump not circulating

The pump may have stopped circulating because the water level in the pool/spa is too low. If the water level has dropped below the center of the skimmer, air may get into the system causing it to stop working well.

"Re-prime" the pump by raising the water level in your pool/spa, then remove the pump lid and place a few gallons of water in the pump basket. After re-attaching the pump lid, open the valve under the pressure gauge on top of the filter. Turn your equipment on and when water sprays from the open valve, close the valve. The equipment should re-prime itself. You can tell the pump is working when the pressure gauge moves.

You can also go here - Spa Packs and Hot Tub Parts
We also carry replacements for major components such as pumps, blowers, heaters, and controllers.

Filter is not cleaning.

Clean the filter.

If the filter is dirty it will cause an increase in pressure and will reduce the ability of the filter to work properly. Cartridge filters need cleaning approximately every 2 months. DE filters need cleaning 2-3 times a year.

There is no power to the equipment. The pool or spa light will not turn on.

Re-set the circuit breaker at the sub or main electrical panel.
Pool/Spa equipment should be on its' own circuit.

There may also be a GFI outlet at the equipment. (See electrical section for clarification about the GFI). Be sure it is in the re-set position. Spas may have a designated re-set button also.

Pool/Spa heater will not come on.

Pool Enclosures Systems...

Clean the filter.

If filters are dirty it restricts water flow into the heater. Most heaters have a pressure switch that will not allow the heater to turn on unless the water flow (pressure) is sufficient.

Libart provides largest range of telescopic opening and fixed swimming pool, Spa and Hot Tub (cover) enclosures. For year around swimming enjoyment in your outdoor pool. Libart Enclosures Systems

SEPTIC TANK CLEANING

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

If your home is served by a septic system, to eliminate pump outs, maintain the system properly and cure problems such as backups, wet spots, odor, etc.

Today modern detergents and bleaches destroy the bacteria and enzymes necessary for breaking down and liquefying all waste matter in your septic tank.

Try Clean Aid - Septic Tank Cleaner

MOLD, ASBESTOS PROBLEM, WATER AND DISASTER RESTORATION

The Problem

Possible Reasons

What You Can Do

If your home has mold, what you need to know about it or you have asbestos in your home or do you have chronic health problems? Allergies, Chronic Fatigue, congestion, Depression, Ear Aches, Flu symptoms, High Fever, Pain in Joints, Sleep Loss, Hallucinations, Skin Erosions, fungal nail Growth, Headaches and many , many more...

First, mold should be respected, not feared. Over the past few decades changes in building practices in response to energy concerns have resulted in "tighter" buildings. And, tighter buildings mean an increased potential for inadequate ventilation. Buildings that can't "breathe" can't dilute indoor pollutants - like mold contained in the building. Due to increases in health problems associated with indoor air quality, researchers discovered that mold exposure is a potential cause of a variety of health effects, including allergy reactions. If you have had a flood, sewer back up, leaking pipes, a leaking roof, or windows, you should probably have you home checked.

  1. KK Environmental Services, Inc. Asbestos and Mold Help - KKES Information or Call (720) 876-0808. Also Property Doctors for water - sewer - mold - fire - asbestos problems at (303) 456-0911 for Denver Metro, Colorado Springs (719) 442-0911, Fort Collins (970) 224-0911 and for there web site click here - Property Doctors.
  2. National Mold Institute or Call (303) 531-6133 you can also get a FREE Mold Inspection.
  3. Or Inspecting Commercial, Industrial and Residential for causation of mold related issues and concerns. You can find more information regarding advanced mold inspections at Advanced Mold Inspections, plus mold information from the US Government Environmental Agency: Mold Information.

All Dry water damage experts

We take pride in getting the job done right so the Chancey family can feel pride in their product – every time. Chancey Enterprises' group of companies are the leading provider of property restoration and reconstruction services. Chancey Enterprises excels at comprehensive and effective disaster recovery solutions. With over 60 years of experience, Chancey Enterprises has successfully restored thousands of residential, commercial, and industrial properties. You can count on Chancey Enterprises to get the job done with a family –owned feeling that makes the customer feel better in the end. Our team of certified specialists delivers the highest levels of quality, service, and workmanship in all facets of residential, commercial, and industrial property damage restoration.

All Dry Water Damage Experts will strive to be the best run company with the most satisfied customers in the restoration industry by providing unparalleled service to residential and commercial clients 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Content Restoration, Water, Fire and Mold Damage Restoration, Infrared Inspection, Crawl Space and Attic Remediation's.

For Denver Area you can also call (303) 478-6127. There web site click here - All Dry water damage experts and also have the most Certification around

Also Property Doctors for water - sewer - mold - fire - asbestos problems at (303) 456-0911 for Denver Metro, Colorado Springs (719) 442-0911, Fort Collins (970) 224-0911 and for there web site click here - Property Doctors

Also Property Doctors for water - sewer - mold - fire - asbestos problems at (303) 456-0911 for Denver Metro, Colorado Springs (719) 442-0911, Fort Collins (970) 224-0911 and for there web site click here - Property Doctors

Complete Basement - Complete Basement Systems Prevent mold, reduce humidity, odors, bugs, and dust.

COMPLETE BASEMENT SYSTEMS, INC is a member of the largest nationwide network of Foundation Repair and Basement Waterproofing specialists in the US and BBB or call (303) 994-2759.

Disaster Restoration and Help getting in all Cleaned Up

Fire and the water damage that accompanies it, can occur at any time in a commercial or residential property. When it does, you need reliable restoration and cleanup help fast. Just one call to us assures a complete and technically proper cleanup and remediation. We provide immediate alleviation to fire, smoke, and water damage in order to minimize the long-term effects and expense of delays.


Companies Phone Numbers for Extended Warranties

  1. Bradford White Water Heaters (800) 531-2111
  2. A.O. Smith Water Heaters (800) 323-2636
  3. State Water Heaters (303) 534-4293
  4. All City Service (303) 454-9500
  5. GE Appliances (800) 626-2000
  6. Hotpoint Appliances (800) 386-1215
  7. Kenmore Appliances (800) 469-4663
  8. Kitchen-Aide Appliances (800) 253-1301
  9. Maytag Appliances (800) 253-1301
  10. Rudd and Rheem Appliances (800) 848-7883
  11. Whirlpool Appliances (800) 222-8608, or for parts
  12. Repair Clinic: Click Here
  13. Fireplace related information and resources: Click Here

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